#19 - Try All of Ruhlman's 20 Techniques (Fail)

When I finished my PhD program, K Rob gifted me with the book Ruhlman's 20, which walks through 20 essential techniques for cooking and includes recipes to practice each one. I did 12 of the 20 last year. I managed to knock 5 more out this year. It's a little weird I can't quite seem to finish it up. Some of the techniques and recipes left are very doable. I think what's actually happened is that I've gotten so into cooking that I've been reading a variety of cooking sources and trying all kinds of things, inspired my my new skills gained from practicing with Ruhlman. I'm sure I'll finally knock these last three out next year!

Many thanks to my perpetual taste testers, Chris Zann, Holly Zann, Elizabeth Pearson, and Michael Bigelow! I'm so happy to have a gang that regularly gathers together to enjoy each other's company and cooking!

The ones from this year are in bold.

1. THINK

Last year. Game changer.

2. SALT

I did this one last year, and I still get requests for the raw zucchini salad and make it often.

I also made lemon confit, a type of preserved lemon peel. I don't quite get it. Either it rotted or I don't enjoy the taste or I'm using it wrong. I still don't know.

Coq au vin simmering

3. WATER

The fanciest of chicken thighs

I made a meatloaf cooked in a water bath last year. This year I did a weeknight coq au vin. Like literally on a weeknight when I just happened to have (most of) the ingredients. It definitely wasn't as picture perfect as the book, but it was incredibly flavorful. I will definitely give this a go again. And so easy!

4. ONION

Maybe next year!

5. ACID

I made it for the first time last year, but I'm so stoked to have this pulled pork recipe in my repetoire. So easy to make, plenty to share, so flavorful.

6. EGG

Practiced only last year with a tart.

7. BUTTER

All these experiments were last year, but I have definitely not been shy about the butter lately.

8. DOUGH

Yum. Snickerdoodles, but also last year.

9. BATTER

10. SUGAR

11. SAUCE

I love the sauce chapter. I did some sauce last year and now I make versions of that sauce (including lots with butter) often.

12. VINAIGRETTE

Last year I made a light vinaigrette for a salad at the Zann's.

This year I did an endive with vinegrette. It was super easy, definitely not as pretty or easy to eat as in the book, but it was super tasty.

13. SOUP

I need to make more soup. I can't wait to try variations from the sweet bell pepper soup I did last year.

Sauteed chicken breasts
with tarragon butter sauce

14. SAUTE

I generally grill or bake chicken breasts, but Ruhlman said to give sauteing a try, so I did. Whoa. So moist. (That's for you, Holly.) This recipe was sauteed chicken breasts with tarragon butter sauce, which called for the simple butter sauce described above, with tarragon. As we ate these, Zann declared, "It turns out I like tarragon." But really I think he might just like butter and the tarragon was inoffensive.


15. ROAST

I have always been comfortable roasting, but I am thankful to this book for stepping up my roasting game. I did my experimenting with roasting last year.

16. BRAISE

17. POACH

I tried a couple poaching recipes.

It wasn't in the book, but after reading about poaching I decided to give it ago with my own concoction. I was craving a version of lemon-pepper chicken, and I decided to mix that up with poaching. Instead of just water, I used homemade chicken stock, lemon, garlic, and pepper and poached a single chicken breast, just for my dinner. Poached chicken always looks so bland, but this was likely the best chicken breast I have ever cooked myself, possibly one of the best chicken breasts I've ever eaten. I'd say I still prefer grilled chicken, but this was way, way better than any baked or broiled chicken I've had. I'm stoked to have this new technique in my repetoire.

The next week, I tried Ruhlman's warm arugula sad with bacon and poached eggs. I had to fudge a bit as my local grocery store didn't have arugula. I got an arugula-spinach blend instead. I also missed the part where I was supposed to get thick bacon, not regular pre-packaged bacon. While I hope to try the full recipe someday, I'm proud that I can improvise so easily now. The salad was very hearty and tasty. I will definitely make it again.

Oh right, the poaching part! I love eggs and have always wanted to learn to poach them. Turns out, I should have just Googled it years ago. Ruhlman offers a similar technique to Serious Eats. I went for the Serious Eats technique because it seemed easier to just use a strainer than a perforated spoon. I did take his suggestion of using water that is not bubbling. I think I might try it with a simmer next time because it seemed like the whites weren't as pretty as I would have liked. But everything turned out great and I will be poaching eggs on the regular thanks to this book.

18. GRILL

My next living space definitely needs access to a grill. I used to grill regularly in San Diego (where grilling season is year round), and I miss being able to cook flavorful, healthy food quickly.

I feel a bit like I'm cheating at this one, but it's going to have to do for now. Most of the technique Ruhlman teaches about grilling is about open flame and direct and indirect heat. I don't currently have a grill and the Zann's have a gas grill, so the charcoal techniques he offers are wasted on me.

For one of our Sunday dinners, I was asked to do the main dish and then I just couldn't decide between the Rip's own marinade for steak and the basic white wine marinade for chicken. So I did both. With the cut of steak, I should have cooked it on lower heat for a bit longer, but the chicken, I nailed the chicken. Perfectly cooked and very flavorful. Both marinades were foolproof and delicious. I've already done a version of the Rip's own to make sloppy joe's with some ground beef I needed to use up. No, that has nothing to do with grilling, but I'm stoked that I'm starting to understand how to combine flavors enough that I can apply these recipes to whatever I happen to have in my fridge.

19. FRY

20. CHILL

I did my best to make my version of a tasty "dessert" (read: after-dinner thing that might have a hint of sweetness) for one of our Sunday night dinners. I tried making granita. Grapefruit granita, to be exact. It's a simple recipe: just grapefruit juice, sugar, and white wine. It takes some commitment as it requires stirring every 30 minutes to break up the ice crystals, but I figured I could do that. It's supposed to take about 2-2.5 hours. So I made it about 3 hours in advance. I stirred it after 30 minutes--still pretty liquidy. I stirred again after an hour--didn't look any different. Again after another 30 minutes--still no change... and this continued until I headed with my slush to dinner. I put it in the freezer there, where it stayed for probably another 2 hours. Still just liquid with a few ice crystals.

My dear friends the Zanns assured me it was okay and we spooned out some of the liquid. It was tart. Really tart. I dug it. But it certainly wasn't a dessert. I took it home and froze it fully. I truly liked it. I even mixed a little with some vodka for a vodka slushie. Very tasty. For me, at least!